Portugal is not an extension of the Costa del Sol but - like its neighbour, Spain - it has spent much of the last 20 years trying to move in from the periphery, forging new ties with the rest of Europe, restructuring its economy, and struggling to maintain what is best in its national culture in the face of a sudden onslaught of international influences.  The struggle between the traditional and the modern continues, and as Portugal flows towards the economic mainstream of the European Union, it still seems to gaze nostalgically over its shoulder and out to sea.

Portuguese food is cheap, delicious and served in gut-expanding portions.  Classic Portuguese meals include sardinhas assadas (charcoal-grilled sardines), pastéis de bacalhau (cod fishcakes) and caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes with slices of sausage).  Seafood dishes such as linguado grelhado (grilled sole) and bife de atúm (tuna steak) are appetising staples.  Meals can be washed down with Portugal's good-quality wines (vinhos) or port - the drink synonymous with Portugal.

The lush landscape of the north is rich viticultural country but also features corn, potato and rye.  The central and southern regions are less green, yet they support corn oaks, olive groves, vineyards, and orange and fig trees, and are a delight in spring when the almond blossoms are in full bloom.

Portugal's climate is temperate.  The country is generally warm from April to October, though somewhat less so in the north, while the southern region of Algarve can experience uncomfortably hot temperatures in midsummer.  During winter, the north receives plenty of rain and temperatures can be chilly.  Snowfall is common in the mountains, particularly the Serra da Estrela range.

Though travellers' cheques are easily exchanged, and at rates about 1% better than for cash, they are very poor value in Portugal because additional fees are so high - sometimes up to 13% for a US$100 cheque.  The exception is American Express travellers' cheques which can be exchanged commission-free with Amex agents.  Plastic is overall a more sensible alternative and there are Multibancos (ATMs) in all tourist centres of any size where you can withdraw cash from credit and debit accounts.  Keeping a small cash stash in US dollars or pounds sterling is a very good idea.

If you're not unhappy with the service, a reasonable restaurant tip is about 10%.  For a snack, a bit of loose change is enough.  Taxi drivers appreciate about 10% of the fare.  Good-humoured bargaining is acceptable in markets but you'll find the Portuguese tough opponents.  Off season, you can sometimes bargain down the price of accommodation.